When sheet masks began making noticeable waves through the skincare sector several years ago, many of us in industry expected them to be a short-lived phase. However, they continue to dominate both consumer and professional product ranges, so we can only assume that; for the time being, they are here to stay.
Among some of the sheet mask trends and developments we’re noticing, the number of specific indications they are designed to treat seems to be on the rise. Traditionally, sheet masks have been ALL about hydration, with little specificity outside of this. We’re seeing more and more the incorporation of active ingredients designed to target things like specific ageing indications, or pigmentation, for example. Another commonality we’re noticing is the composition. Biocellulose appears to be the new material of choice, so we thought we would delve into the peer-reviewed research to find out why.
Biocellulose, a plant-derived fibre (often coconut) is a wonderful sheet mask material of choice for sustainable brands, as it is fully biodegradable. But there are several other benefits specifically relating to skin health, and the research tells us that biocellulose maintains optimal bacterial levels as well as expedite the skin’s wound healing abilities.
According to Argel et al., (2022) biocellulose is a natural, non-toxic, biocompatible material that offers high purity and water retention capacity. It reportedly also offers great biomimicry of the skin’s extracellular matrix. Authors state that this acts as an ideal manual barrier against bacteria when dressing wounds, as well as offering an excellent delivery system for various drugs and active ingredients. Authors also acknowledge that maintaining a hydrated environment is essential for the promotion of healing processes.
This sentiment is echoed by others including Choi et al., (2022) heroing biocellulose for its water-retaining abilities over cellulose material. Authors state that biocellulose is over 3x more effective at absorbing both water and lipids. In the context of sheet masks, this is an excellent property - since you can imagine, we want to pack as many actives and hydrators as we possibly can!
A professional range engrained in evidence-based practice, Murad has chosen biocellulose for its latest-to-launch. Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Masks, for retail and professional use, offer no-slip biocellulose eye masks designed to enhance infusion of their hero ingredients:
Murad’s Retinol Tri-Active Technology offering fast-acting retinoid, time-released retinol and a retinol booster
A powerful cocktail of botanicals that visibly firm, smoothe, and de-puff
We blink about 18,000 times per day. This, coupled with the fact that the muscles in the periorbital region are engaged in most of our facial expressions, means that the eye area generally shows the first signs of ageing. Co-created alongside Murad Advocacy Board member and eye mask enthusiast, Dr. Zion, these unique eye masks have been created in a considered, extended-fit shape. This is to ensure key ingredients extend anywhere you may need, from the inner corners, the under-eyes, and the lateral orbital and crow’s feet areas.
Murad’s biocellulose is synthesised from bacterial coconut, which is fermented over 14 days. Biocellulose comprises tightly woven fibres roughly 20-30nm wide (the average human pore is 50mn wide!) and it is this increased surface area which allows the biocellulose to hold such significantly greater levels of active ingredients than other materials.
To enhance delivery even further, the product contained within Murad’s new eye masks features a considered formulation with specialised liposomes. The oily surface of our skin is similar to the lipid bilayers of the liposome, allowing for easier penetration of the liposomes through the skin barrier, where the encapsulated actives can be released. The liposome itself remains behind to further replenish the skin’s surface. Due to this clever formulation and enhanced delivery aided by the biocellulose, results can be seen in just 15 minutes.
Visit murad.com.au to find out more or enquire about becoming a stockist in your clinic.
Argel, S., Castaño, M., Jimenez, D. E., Rodríguez, S., Vallejo, M. J., Castro, C. I., & Marlon, A. O. (2022). Assessment of Bacterial Nanocellulose Loaded with Acetylsalicylic Acid or Povidone-Iodine as Bioactive Dressings for Skin and Soft Tissue Infections. Pharmaceutics, 14(8), 1661. https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics14081661
Choi, S. M., Rao, K. M., Zo, S. M., Shin, E. J., & Han, S. S. (2022). Bacterial Cellulose and Its Applications. Polymers, 14(6), 1080. https://doi.org/10.3390/polym14061080