We’ve noticed a spike in the number of questions and concerns among industry lately regarding the safety and efficacy of serum infusion during the skin needling process. What are the correct protocols? Which products and ingredients are safe to use and which aren’t? What types of practices may result in adverse outcomes like granulomas? This latest blog explores some of the surrounding issues, and potential solutions.
As we know, microneedling is an extremely effective and safe method of skin rejuvenation, when carried out correctly. Much in the same way, so too is serum infusion - when carried out with the right ingredients, in the right forms, in the right doses. Unfortunately, the growing popularity of serum infusion to elevate skin needling outcomes has led to the belief that any serum will do. However, this is not the case. It’s crucial to remember that the products applied topically when microneedling will penetrate deep into the skin, much deeper than they would when applied under regular circumstances. So of course, the molecular size and weight of the ingredients used in that serum must be taken into account. For example, many hyaluronic acid-based serums intentionally contain HA of a larger molecular weight so that they may sit on the skin’s surface and act as a protective barrier throughout the day. If these are then forced into the tissue through needled channels, problems are very likely to occur. These ingredients which have been formulated for topical-only application may contribute to the formation of infection, granulomas, nodules and the formation of scar tissue.
The molecular weight is not the only problem at hand. A product’s packaging also determines its suitability for needling infusion. Topical-only products are often more at risk of microbial contamination because they aren’t air-tight. This isn’t generally a concern when applied to the skin’s surface thanks to our natural barrier, but when these microbes are pushed through the skin barrier and deeper into the tissue with needling, infections are extremely likely. One of the biggest concerns is granulomas, which are a collection of cells and tissue formed in response to infection, chronic inflammation, and the presence of foreign bodies. So, while you may have some incredible efficacious serums at your disposal, if they have not been formulated specifically to be used in conjunction with skin needling, it’s best to leave them for their originally-designed protocols, ie. outside of clinical treatments. You wouldn’t want to use anything that could put your clients’ skin health at risk, or extend their downtime and skin recovery.
For best possible safety and results, always seek a range designed specifically for use during needling. Dermapen’s DP Dermaceuticals™ has been designed not just for excellent slip during needling, but to offer a range of serum options that can target specific indications and enhance clients results and reduce downtime. Some hero ingredients include:
Hyaluronic acid - one of the key ingredients used to support skin needling based on its ability to support cell proliferation, Glycosaminoglycans (GAGS), cellular communication, and of course, hydration. Dermapen’s DP Dermaceuticals™ HylaFuse™ is clinically proven to be absorbed 150 times more effectively than other forms of HA, with triple molecular weighting for multi-level skin saturation. It also acts as the delivery system for the transportation of active ingredients like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Zinc across the range.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP – Vitamin C) - A stable, gentle and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that will not cause irritation during the skin healing process. It’s a powerful antioxidant, a collagen pre-cursor, a tyrosinase inhibitor, and is safe for all skins.
Zinc - A critical mineral to support skin healing and repair before, during, and post-needling. It’s an important component for collagen and elastin production, contributes to DNA repair, and is critical for correcting skin conditions, particularly inflammation and sun damage.
Dp Dermaceuticals™, part of the Dermapen family, is formulated with the right ingredients, in the right forms, and in the right doses in order to safely enhance, complement, and repair the skin - before, during, and after Dermapen needling treatments. Their range includes options for indications including dehydration, ageing, and pigmentation to name a few. To find out more, contact the INSKIN team by clicking here.